Cohousing-L Mailing List: Re: Re:Radiant floor Heat

[Kay Argyle (argyle]

> Was just told by one builder can't do wooden floors over [radiant floor
heat]....

Not necessarily -- Our upstairs landing is hardwood, with the tubes
underneath. However, air doesn't conduct heat well, and radiant heat tends
to dry out the wood.  Heat transmission is better when the pipes are
embedded in concrete, so that is the preferred construction.  Flooring over
the concrete affects transmission also.

Radiant heat was an extra-cost option.  The buildings at Wasatch Commons are
slab-on-grade with no downstairs flooring provided.  As we sit on the floor
a lot, and I go barefoot besides, we weren't looking forward to chilly
concrete.

We talked to a number of local radiant heating contractors at home shows,
trying to make up our minds.  Apparently a fair number of older houses in
Salt Lake's Avenues have radiant heating under wooden floors, either
constructed or retrofit.  We were told a closed-loop system, where the water
recirculates, is better than an open-loop system where it mixes with your
culinary water.

We paid the money, and haven't regretted it an instant.

With the exception of the landing, the upstairs floors are a lightweight
concrete, soft chalky stuff, with ceramic tile or carpet on top.  The carpet
and wood feel only faintly above room temperature, but on the other hand,
they are consistent, whereas the tile and concrete vary, warm close to a
tube, cool a step away -- although you won't notice if you wear shoes and
sit on chairs.  (The kitties scout out the toasty spots.)

The house takes much longer to heat up than with a forced-air system -- my
thermostat is set for an hour before my alarm.  On the other hand, it takes
longer to get cold.  No temperature swings, no noisy fan -- no dusty
filters.  After years of multi-kleenex mornings, I'd forgotten what it was
like to have clear sinuses.  These days my anti-snuffle medication is needed
only for closet cleaning.  (My bronchitis is unaffected, being smog-based.)

In three years, we haven't had trouble with our system, but a neighbor had
extensive repairs -- failure of valves, manifolds, etc.

Consider getting multiple zones with separate thermostats -- the flexibility
is worth the extra cost.  Our kitchen floor is noticeably cooler than the
living room, sometimes cold, and raising the thermostat makes the living
room too warm.  A couple of neighbors have mentioned the same problem.  I
suspect the pipes go through the living room first and have lost their heat
before they get to the kitchen.  We zoned the bedrooms separately and have
been pleased with the decision -- although since both sets of pipes run
through the bathroom, it makes the floor there even more variable in
temperature.

Kay
Wasatch Commons
Salt Lake City, Utah
argyle @ mines.utah.edu
*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*'``'*:-.,_,.-:*

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